Kashi Varanasi Yatra Packages
Overview
Some
data are available about Kasi Yatra in the literature; mainly the
internet: but, I could not get a detailed information on the subject.
The available data are inadequate, because, several questions remain
unanswered. A number of readers have given brief info on some aspects of
the Yatra; while others have given on some other aspects. But,
comprehensive information covering all essential aspects of the Yatra is
not available in the literature: mainly, the net. This is perhaps
because, one has to spend considerable amount of time for a detailed
write-up. I have spent about ten days in collating the information based
on my own travel and experience. Before emabarking on Kasi Yatra, one
must be familiar with terms like: Triveni Sangam, Manikarnika Ghats,
Veni Daan, Akshaya Vada, Vishnu Paad, Gaya Shrardham, Ganga Aarti, Kasi
Vishwanath, Annapoorna, etc. I hope this write-up would be useful to the
pilgrims who contemplate Kasi Yatra in the near future.
Why Kasi Yatra?
Several
Hindus talk of embarking on Kasi Yatra when they get old. The Hindus
believe that Kasi Yatra constitutes the final journey of life. As one
becomes aware that he is getting old, he comes to terms with the process of life
and death. One seeks salvation despite the sins he has committed
knowingly or unknowingly all through his life. Kasi may provide a path
to Moksha notwithstanding the present and past Karmas: notwithstanding
the present and past sins. Kasi provides one last hope for salvation.
This is the Hindu belief. Also Kasi Yatra includes trip to Gaya and
Prayaag (Allahabad). You feed the hungry ancestors waiting anxiously at
Gaya: for you to offer food to them in the form of pindams.
The satisfied ancestors bless you with good health, wealth and
happiness. They will bless you with all best things on Earth that you
have desired. Kasi is the place for liberation as well, apart from
salvation. Liberation from what?: Liberation from the cycle of births
and deaths. Having experienced misery several times in life, no sane
person wants to be born again and again in this world? During the
ancient days, old people used to embark on Kasi Yatra, walking all the
way to Kasi from deep down South, just to die in Kasi. They used to walk
through forests and mountainous terrains. Many
died on the way. Nevertheless Moksha is assured. Those days, if one
goes on Kasi Yatra, he or she will never be seen any time in future.
Because, we never had high-speed transportation system or infrastructure
to support such travel. The Yatra was invariably by walk.
These
days, many people don’t have a good idea regarding what exactly
constitutes Kasi Yatra. Some people think that a Kasi Yatra simply means
a trip to Kasi and a dip in the River Ganga. This is not true. Some
others, who have heard of the trips to places such as Kasi, Gaya,
Prayaag, etc. in connection with Kasi Yatra, are aware of the rites or
Samskaras, But, they think that it may be a very expensive process. This
is also not true. Kasi Yatra with your partner (wife or husband) need
not be very expensive: it can actually be quite affordable. Note that,
in order to carry out ceremonies like Shrardham, one must be accompanied
by his wife: since, both husband and wife are involved in most of the
ceremonies. It is better not to take children with us.
The
main purpose of our trip has been to carry out the rituals related to
Kasi Yatra: not site-seeing. These include prayers at Temples like
Viswanath, Visalakshi, etc. Someone told me that there are at least a
thousand temples at Kasi: so, it is called the City of Temples. There
are a hundred major Temples. The Kasi Yatra also includes trips to Gaya
and Prayag (Allahabad). A dip in Ganges and Triveni Sangam and prayers
at Viswanath and Visalakshi Temples will help cleanse our sins and
facilitate Moksha. Performing Shrardham
at Gaya will give us the best opportunity to receive the blessings of
our ancestors, who will be too pleased to bless us after we offer the
pindams. At Kasi, we may also perform Ganga Pooja and Dampati Pooja.
The best age for embarking on Kasi
Yatra is between 55 to 65 years. Because, by that age people normally
finish all their responsibilities / commitments to the family. Further,
after 65 years, one may not be physically fit to withstand the rigors of
the trips to various places; not to mention the highly-involved ceremonies.
Further, one needs some mental make-up in terms of renunciation,
maturity, spiritual outlook, etc. which are not possible when you are
too young. As one grows old, he gets mellowed down in matters relating
to materialism. This kind of mind-set is appropriate for Kasi Yatra. Like
I have mentioned before, please do not take your children during Kasi
Yatra. It is inauspicious to witness things like Akshaya Vata and Vishnu
Paada when the parents are alive. Besides, Kasi Yatra is not precisely a
pleasure trip for fun.
In
this write-up, I have given a brief description of the three places
involved: Kasi, Prayaag and Gaya. In summer, it is very hot in all these
places: temperature goes up to 45 deg. C. So, please avoid peak of
summer. Also, winter will be very cold. So, bathing in the rivers will
be difficult. Hence, it is a good idea to choose a proper time for Kasi
Yatra.
About Benaras
Since
Kasi Yatra mainly refers to Kasi, I consider it necessary to tell you
all something about Kasi or Benaras, which is referred to as Varanasi in
the Railway Guides, Air Maps, and for all official purposes. Clearly,
there are three names pertaining to the same place: Kasi, Benaras and
Varanasi: So, I am a bit confused regarding the name by which I am
supposed to talk about this place. This confusion comes because: the
pilgrimage to this city is Kasi Yatra; the major University here is
Benaras Hindu University; the official name is Varanasi. Anyway, I will
use all these three names in this write-up, depending on the situation
and purpose. For instance, no one says it is Varanasi Yatra; but it is
always Varanasi Airport; and Benaras Hindu University. Varanasi is
derived from Varuna plus Assi, the two rivers. Varanasi is situated
between the confluence of the rivers, Varuna and Assi with the Ganges.
There is mention of Kasi in Rig Veda, Ramayana, Mahabharata, etc. So,
the city is certainly very old: perhaps, older than 3,000 years.
Clearly, Benaras is one of the oldest civilizations of the world. No
wonder, Mark Twain had described Benaras as older than history and older
than tradition. More than 30 lakh people live here; a very populated
and crowded place indeed. I have heard of this city in connection with: pilgrimage
(Kasi Yatra), silk sarees (Benares silk), Kasi Vishwanath Temple, etc. I
also know that Kasi has been a major Center of Learning for Vedic
studies for three thousand years. Some important Universities have been
established here during ancient times: one being Taxila. Well known
poets or scholars like Kabir, Tulsi Das, Pundit Ravi Shankar, Bismilla
Khan, etc. have lived here. Adi Shankara wrote his commentaries on Hinduism here, leading to the great Hindu revival. Vaishnavism, Shaivism as well as Shakta Sect have coexisted in Kasi harmoniously for hundreds of years.
Nearly
20 years back, my sister who has been working in the Benaras Hindu
University (BHU), has said that Benaras is not very clean; and that
Ganges is actually very dirty. Even now, Ganges is far from clean;
despite the crores of Rupees spent under Clean Ganga Project of the
Govt. of India. The boatman told me that the money allocated for the
Project has not been effectively spent; and that some people may have
actually swindled considerable part of the budget.
Benaras
is a highly crowded city. It is full of lanes. Lanes and lanes,
everywhere. As if these are not enough, there are also sub-lanes along
the lanes. You will see cows and cattle blocking the lanes. These cows
generally allow no more than one-foot-space for us to get through them.
No, they will never hurt you. Still, one is always skeptical while
walking through them. Also, you will have to be careful while crossing
the gallis (lanes); lest you skid as you walk on the cow-dung. Regarding
neatness, cleanliness etc., less said, the better. Note that, in order
to get to the Ganges and various Ghats, you should necessarily walk
through these gallis; or galli-gallis: I mean sublanes. Most of the
Mutts or Halls where religious ceremonies are held are along these
gallis; so no escape from these. I had already read about them in one of
the issues of Mangaiyar Malar, the Tamil Magazine; so, I was mentally
prepared for this kind of experience. Therefore, what I saw was
something very similar to what I had visualised in my mind about
Benaras; except that I did not bargain for gallis within
the gallis; this is something too much for me. Within these lanes, you
have various shops; selling nice things: lassis, cool drinks, sweets,
etc. There are some shops next to the public toilets. Yet, people eat
happily as if they live in a very different world notwithstanding the
stink from the toilets. Apparently, the fine smell of the hot-hot
delicacies has overpowered the stink from the toilets which are just a
few feet apart. The old city is highly congested and polluted; so, the
affluent section of the present population has moved to the suburbs with
better facilities. However, all the ancient Temples are situated in the
old city: generally, along the Ganga River.
In
this connection, I want to caution the readers about one thing. When
you want to visit Kasi for pilgrimage, just don’t bother about things
like cleanliness. Be a part of the crowd. Be a team player. You will
actually feel nice that way. Even if you live in a star hotel, you still
have to come to one of these ancient houses or Mutts for ceremonies.
That is why, we actually decided to stay in one an a/c hotels just
opposite one of those religious joints in a lane. This is not the
ultimate-quality hotel; but would serve our purpose. Indeed, several
VIPs have carried out the religious ceremonies from this house owned by
Shri Krishnamoorthy Ganapadigal. Nadigar Thilagam Shivaji Ganesan and
his family, for instance; Shri Radha Ravi being another visitor. I was
gaping at the huge photo of Shivaji in his house for several minutes. I
was told that Radha Ravi was also constantly looking at this very photo
for a long time. The way Shivaji was standing with folded hands in front
of the Ganapadigal with absolute humility and piety is impressive.
Anyone will get that feeling. The Ganapadigal said that Benaras is
bursting at the seams; because, a city basically designed for just 5,000
people several hundred years back, is now catering to a crowd of 50
lakhs. (I checked up the population data later; it appears that the
actual population is around 31 lakhs as on 2001). What else can you
expect from such a situation? Nevertheless, thousands and thousands of
people keep pushing each other as they walk to the Ganges or as they
have a dip in the Holy River. The thought of attaining Moksha is too
overpowering and tempting in relation to the cleanliness of the river or
inconvenience due to excessive crowd. If you expect clean, crystal -
clear water in the Ganges, you are asking for the Moon. The water is
muddy; dead bodies are dipped into the Ganges just very close to your
bathing spot; I have seen, even sewage water flowing into the Ganges.
Yet, the water is fairly acceptable for a bath. Indeed, we enjoyed
bathing in the Ganges; we refused to come out of water; but for the need
to do ceremonies. The Priest told me that Maha Shivratri is the most
famous festival in Kasi, when the devotees take bath in the Ganges and
pray Lord Vishwanath. Very large number of people visit Kasi at that
time.
About Prayaag (Allahabad)
Though Prayag has been in existence for ages, the name Allahabad was given by the Mughal
emperor, Akbar. Allahabad or Prayag is also called the "Tirth Raj", the
king of all pilgrimage centers. There are many references to Prayag in
the Epics, Vedas and Puranas. Allahabad is situated at the confluence of
the three rivers: Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati (a
mythical river which is not visible). The place where Ganga and Yamuna
meet is called Sangam (union): the venue of many sacred fairs and
rituals: the place that attracts thousands of pilgrims throughout the
year. The most important event at Prayag is the Kumbha Mela. Millions of
people from all over India gather at Prayag to take a holy dip at
Sangam. People also go to Prayaag for the annual Magha Mela, which is
also holy. We took a car to Allahabad, which is about 2 1/2 hours drive
from Kasi. After completing all the rituals at Prayaag, we got back to
Benaras the same day. Indeed, we had enough time in the evening to visit
a few places, as well as to witness Ganga Aarti.
About Gaya
Gaya
is situated on the banks of Phalgu (or Phalguni) river in the State of
Bihar. Gaya was a part of the ancient Province of Magadha, and is a
sacred city not only for the Hindus, but also for the Budhists. Gaya
derives its name from the demon, Gayasur (Gaya plus Asur, the demon).
Lord Vishnu killed the demon by placing his foot on him. The foot-print
of Vishnu was left in Gaya. The demon got transformed to a series of
rocks and hills around Gaya. The whole city has become holy and blessed
by Mahavishnu. That is why lakhs of people visit Gaya to perform
Shraddha to absolve the sins of the ancestors. The pleased and satisfied
ancestors bless us with good health and wealth: not only for us; but
also for the entire family. Gods and Goddesses have promised to live on
Gayasur’s body, which is present everywhere in Gaya. There are various
Ghats and Temples along the Falgu (Phalgu) River. There are also a few
Temples on hill-tops: such as: Rama Shila, Mangla Gauri, Shringa Sthan
and Brahmayoni. These Temples are generally part of the pilgrimage
circuit. Elaborate staircases have been built in most of them, when
there is an ascent. I did not have time to visit most of them, though.
In this region, trees such as Pipal and Akshaya Vat (the banyan tree
that does not die) are popular and considered holy. The Mangla Gauri
shrine has two round stones representing Goddess Sati, the consort of
Lord Shiva. The most important Temple however, is Vishnu Paad Temple
along the Phalgu River. Vishnu Paad or Foot is very holy, because the
Holy Foot has annihilated the demon. You should place the pindas; wash
them; and then place your head on the Holy Foot to attain Moksha. We
went to Gaya by car and returned to Benaras by the same car, which was
arranged by our Pundit Ganapaadigal. There is no need to book a hotel at
Gaya. We started from Benaras at 2 AM and reached Gaya at 7 AM. After
completing the rituals at Gaya, we started from Gaya at 1 PM and reached
Benaras by 6 PM. We had enough time in the evening to visit some
temples in Kasi.
Tour Schemes and Options
There
are various schemes available from the Tour Operators suiting your
budget. There are a number of methods of embarking on Kasi Yatra. My
wife and self have chosen a somewhat costly method in view of my time
limitations (I still continue to work; I am 62 plus): I have the need to
complete the whole Yatra and important rituals in 5 days. I have
problem of leave. So, I have decided to fly wherever possible along with
my wife. Chennai-Benaras – Chennai; via Delhi, where there is a
stop-over for one to four hours depending on the flight. But, even this
is not too expensive. It is a good idea to carry with you some bread and
snacks to eat in places like airport during the waiting periods; or
even inside the plane. The present day flights may or may not provide
food onboard. Besides, after performing Shrardham, one is not supposed
to eat all kinds of food offered in the airlines during the return trip.
There
are a number of Tour Operators all over India. There are a few at
Chennai too; for instance, there is one at T.Nagar who regularly
advertises in the local magazines giving details of the programmes as
well as amount involved. The budget varies between Rs. 6,000 to 10,000
depending on the services provided. We went through a Service Provider,
Mr. Vaideeswaran, who has an office at Spencer Plaza, Chennai. For
myself and my wife, he has designed a specific programme by arranging
appropriate flights, so that we could complete the whole programme in 4
days; that too within the budget that we had in mind. For us, time was
at premium. I find Mr. Vaideeswaran a very cordial, friendly and
reasonable person. He has provided us quality service and has been in
touch with us even while we were at Kasi, Gaya or Allahabad. Wherever we
went, someone was there to receive us. The coordination was
near-perfect. Whenever we had some problems: minor, though: he sorted
them out through his representatives at various places. I will be happy
to give his address on request.
There
are various tour – programmess, generally, extending to a period of 10
to 15 days, organized by tour operators using modes such as trains, vans
or cars. Such programmes may cost less. Some service providers offer
very cost-effective programs when you go in groups; they may provide
group accommodation in modest places.
There
is a difference of opinion regarding the sequence of visits to varied
places. Some say, you should visit Triveni first; others say, Benaras. I
went through the literature on the subject; there is no conclusive
advice in such matters. Also, the problem of flight availability,
landing spot, connecting flight etc. will impose further restraints on
your programs. So, we decided to have our programs as follows: Chennai –
Benaras – Prayag (Allahabad) – Benaras – Gaya – Bodh Gaya – Benaras –
Chennai. For people residing at Chennai, this is the best bet; in case
you want to fly.
The
Indian Railways operate a popular ten-day Tour Programme from Chennai
by means of Ganga-Kavery Express. Most of the pilgrims may find this
method convenient and suitable. Even for such programmes, I feel, it is
better to engage a professional coordinator
or tour advisor. It will make immense sense; and is also cost
effective. Mr. Vaideeswaran, our Service Provider, also coordinates with
the Railways and others to facilitate such tours. Please note that irrespective of the type of the tour programme, mode of travel, number of days, and itinerary, the charges may not include the expenses required for performing religious rites or rituals; which may be around Rs. 10000 to 20000 depending on what you intend to do. The
amount required for daan depends entirely on your generosity. If you
are aware of this, you won’t have any problem with your Tour Operators.
A typical itinerary for the Indian Railways Kasi Yatra is as follows: (Tariff: Economy: Rs. 6650 per person (twin sharing); Standard: Rs. 9200 (twin sharing)):
- Day 1: Monday: Dep from Chennai Central by 2669, Ganga Kaveri Express at 17:30 hrs
- Day 2: Tuesday: Train journey
- Day 3: Wednesday: Arrival Allahabad at 03:50 hrs. Check-in for Wash and fresh up in Dharamshala. Visit to Triveni Sangamam for bathing. Darshan of Anjaneya. After lunch, visit Anand Bhavanand and reach Ayodhya at 20.00 hrs. Overnight stay in Ayodhya
- Day 4: Thursday: Bath in river Sarayu and visit Valmiki Bhavan, Ram Janam Bhoomi, Kanak Bhavan and Hanuman Temple. After lunch check out from hotel at Ayodhya and Proceed to Varanasi (220 kms). On arrival, get to your hotel and stay overnight at Varanasi.
- Day 5: Friday: Bathe in river Ganga. Perform rituals to ancestors. Visit Kasi Viswanath Temple, Visalakshi Temple and Annapoorani Temple. After lunch and rest, visit Ganga Aarathi in the evening. Stay overnight at Varanasi
- Day 6: Friday: After breakfast, check-out hotel from Varanasi, proceed to Gaya. Visit Kal Bairav Temple enroute and arrive at Gaya. Proceed to Buddha Gaya and visit Main Temple and Monasteries of various countries. Check into hotel at Gaya and stay overnight.
- Day 7: Sunday: Perform rituals for ancestors and visit Vishnu Pad Temple. After lunch, check-out from hotel at Gaya and proceed to Varanasi. Check into hotel at Varanasi and stay overnight.
- Day 8: Monday: Enjoy Boat ride in river Ganga in the morning. After lunch, check out from Hotel and visit Banaras Hindu Uiversity, Birla Temple, Sankat Mochan Mandir, Thulasi Manas Mandir, Gaudi Bai Mandir and Saranath temple. Proceed to Varanasi Railway station to board Train no. 2670, Ganga Kaveri Express: Dep. at 20:25 hrs.
- Day 9: Tuesday: Train journey
- Day 10: Wednesday: Arrive Chennai Central Railway station at 09:50 hrs.
Like
I have pointed out before, my own programme has been short and sweet,
but hectic. The Chennai-Varanasi-Chennai travel has been by air via
Delhi (stopover). The whole programme was over in four days; but this
will kept us very busy every moment from take-off to landing. There have
been a series of programmes; never a dull moment. In such high-density
programmes, one should have the capacity to withstand the rigorous time
schedule as well as the rigors of the rituals and successive visits to
the temples. However, most of the important activities (rituals, ghats,
and temples) have been covered albeit in an intensive way.
I recommend that the readers take 6 sets of inner garments. You won’t
have time to wash them, anywhere. Take four sets of dhotis as well as angavastarams.
The ladies should take four sets of 9 yards sarees. Also take a few
towels and hand-kerchiefs. It is a good idea to take elementary
medicines like antacids, paracetamol, multivitamin tablets, etc. Also,
learn to wear the Panchkatchan Dhoti or Madissar Pudavai (for ladies):
you may not get help in such matters at Kasi, Prayaag, Gaya etc. My
itinerary is as follows: (Total fare: Rs. 18,496 per head):
Day 1:
Dep. Chennai: June , 09: IC 440: 0640 Hrs
Arrive Delhi: June , 09: 0910 Hrs.
Dep. Delhi: June , 09: IC 406: 1005 hrs.
Arrive Varanasi: June 6, 09: 1120 Hrs.
Lunch at the residence of Sh. Krishnamurthy: 1200Hrs; Tea at the same place: 1600 Hrs.
Visit Temples: Kal Bairav, Birla Mandir, etc.
Day 2:
Travel
to Allahabad by car (about 2 ½ hours). Bathing in Triveni Sangam. Take
water from Sangam in a can. Buy small copper containers from a shop. You
may buy some 10 containers. Also buy one big container to take Ganga
water for Abhishek at Rameshwaram. Give Ganga water for pouring in these
containers and sealing.
Return to Kasi by 3 PM
Boating in Ganga. Visit the Ghats of Ganga
Ganga Aarti (about 2 hours): Float a lamp on the Ganges.
Visit Temples: Viswanath, Annapoorni
Go to sleep early: say by 8 to 9 PM.
Day 3:
Wake up at 1 AM. Take bath. Get ready by 2 AM. Take clothes for bathing and Shrardh.
Travel to Gaya. Dep. 2 AM. Reach Gaya by 7 AM.
Perform Gaya Shrardh
Visit Vishnu Pada Temple. Perform rituals at this Temple.
Visit Bodh Gaya enroute to Benaras.
Reach Kasi by 5-30 PM.
Visit Visalakshi Temple.
Day 4:
Rituals and Poojas at the Mutt of Shri Krishnamurthy Ganapadigal
Perform Shrardh in the Ghats: 5 times.
Concluding Pooja: Namaskarams (Pranaams): Daans
Offering of Shrardh Lunch for the Brahmins at the residence of Ganapadigal
We may eat Shrardh Lunch thereafter.
Leave for Varanasi Airport by 1230 Hrs.
Dep.: Varanasi: June 9, 09: IC 405: 1540 Hrs.
Arrive: Delhi: 1700 Hrs.
Dep. Delhi: June 9, 09: IC 540: 2000 Hrs.
Arrive: Chennai: June 9, 09: 2235 Hrs.
Note:
By the time you reach your residence at Chennai it will be past
midnight. Most of the times, the airlines don’t maintain the scheduled
time; invariably there are delays; you must allow for them. We almost
missed the connecting flight to Varanasi from Delhi. However, we managed
to get the flight because, the connecting flight to Varanasi was also
late! So, one mistake corrected the other!
The
best method of visiting various ancient Temples at Kasi is by means of
an auto rickshaw; not car. A bigger vehicle like car cannot swiftly move
through the huge crowd along the lanes. The cycle rickshaws are also
used. It is a painful sight to see the cycle rickshaw pullers pedaling
their ways through the lanes: a practice no more prevalent in most of
the areas of Chennai. Just imaging an old man moving the rickshaw on
which, three fat ladies have been happily sitting. It is painful to see such a sight.
For
visiting places like Gaya, Prayag (Allahabad) etc. from Benaras, I
suggest that you go by a car. You need not book a hotel at Gaya. You
need to book only one hotel for all these visits; say, at Benaras. You
can move back and forth from Benaras. For a pilgrimage consisting of
three nights and four days, I booked an a/c hotel at Benaras through
Shri Krishnamoorthy Ganapaadigal, who was recommended by Mr.
Vaideeswaran. I found this arrangement very convenient. It will take
about six hours to reach Gaya from Benaras. After doing the ceremonies
at Gaya, you can be back to Benaras by 6 PM. And take rest for some time
in your hotel. Triveni at Allahabad is about 2 ½ hours drive from
Benaras. There is a minor problem in such an arrangement, though. You
need to get up at 1 AM for your trip to Gaya; and take bath in the
hotel; and get into the car by 2 AM; you will reach Gaya early in the
morning (by 7 AM); just in time for conducting the ceremonies. Our
Ganapadigal had already arranged for someone to receive us at the site
at Gaya. Everything went off with clock-work- precision vis-Ã -vis
time-schedule. That is why I say, it is better to go through a reliable
travel coordinator or advisor.
There
are a number of star hotels in Benaras: most of which are away from the
major Temples, Thirthas or Ghats. These hotels will provide you all
luxury and comfort to be expected in such hotels. However, for rituals,
you still have to travel some 15 km and come to the Ghats via the lanes.
So, it becomes pointless to stay in such high class hotels. The idea of
coming to Kasi is for pilgrimage; not for fun. The accent is on rites,
rituals and Vedic procedures; not comfort and pleasure. However, please
note that the power (current) fails too often. In this sense, a decent
hotel has an advantage. Because, the hotel may have a generator.
Otherwise, you may get burnt in the heat of summer. The generator allows
you to switch on at least a fan, if not the a/c. Considering these
points, we stayed in a modest a/c hotel just opposite the house of the
Ganapaadigal, albeit in a lane! When the power failed, a fan came to our
rescue. I suggest that you choose an accommodation in one of the lanes
at Hanuman Ghat. I feel, it is a good idea to be with the public rather
than seeking exclusive treatment in a stylish hotel. In my opinion, a
good, decent, clean hotel near one of the Ghats would do. We stayed at
the Hotel Arti in Hanuman Ghat
(a/c hotel). It is not very expensive by the standards of Chennai or
Mumbai. It is also just opposite the House where the Vaadhyar or Pundit
performed ceremonies like Sankalpam; so very convenient. We were also
provided with South Indian food in the same House (Mutt), which has a
decent Mess. The food is prepared by a group of Brahmins. Even if you
stay in star hotels several kms apart, it is inconvenient to travel by
the car in the narrow lanes where the Ghats are situated. So, staying in
such hotels don’t make much sense in whatever way you look at it.
Ganga Snaan
Ganga
Snaan means, bathing in the Ganges or Triveni Sangam. Ganga Snaan
ensures Moksham. You can get rid of all your sins and avoid rebirth. The
Ganges is highly polluted and unclean. I am generally very finicky
about cleanliness; but in Kasi, I just went with the general public; and
I actually felt quite comfortable; and was generally, at ease. When you
see dead bodies being cremated along the Ghats, what cleanliness are we
talking about? However, we realize that, after all, human body is
basically a filthy unclean system; this is how one feels in Kasi.
Besides, the Holy Ganges cleanses the whole body; and also our sins. I
would like to mention that in spite of repeated baths in the various
Ghats as well as Triveni Sangam, we never had any problem with our body
or skin when we returned to Chennai. No itching! The Priest told me that
the Ganges water is known to last a hundred years without getting
spoiled. The water in Triveni appears to be cleaner. It is a pleasure to
take bath at the Triveni Sangam. There is considerable force exerted on
you by the rivers. So, you should hold on to one of the poles erected
at the Sangam. There is also a rope at which you can place your feet for
security. The platform, the pole and the rope provides enough security
for a safe bath. The platform is placed in a region where the depth of
water is not too much: say, 3 to 4 feet. During the days of flood, I am
told, people don’t take bath at the interior region; but on the steps
near the banks. You should dip into the Ganges or Sangam nine times,
with your head fully immersed in water as you chant: Om Namakshivaya. At
Sangam, don’t forget to immerse the Holy Sand brought from Agni
Theerth, Rameshwaram. Also, you should immerse a few strands of your
wife’s hair at Sangam, constituting Veni Daanam. I have discussed about
this separately in another Section.
The Ghats of the Ganges
I
am told that there are around 100 Ghats along the Ganga River; but from
the point of pilgrimage and / or bathing, five Ghats are very popular: Dasaswamedh Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat, Harischandra Ghat, Panch Ganga and Assi Ghat.
In a few Ghats like Harishchandra and Manikarnika, we noticed that a
large number of dead bodies are cremated after dipping them in the
Ganges; yes, the dead bodies are dipped on one side, as people take bath
nearby unmindful of this. This is Varanasi. The Ghats of Ganga
constitute the holiest spots along the Ganges. Several kings of the past
have built palaces near the Ghats. I was also told by our Vaadhiyar
(Priest) that the ladies of King Ranjit Singh used to take bath in a
Ghat regularly in the residence which exists even now along the Ganga.
There are a large number of Temples along the Ganga; esp. near the
Ghats. People pray in these Temples after a bath in the Ghats. We had a
dip in three of the Ghats and prayed in one of the Temples on the shore.
Not all the Ghats have Temples; they are simply for taking bath. The
Tulsi Ghat is named after the famous poet, Tulsi Das, who actually lived
here for several years and composed Ram Charit Manas. It is like our
Kamba Ramayanam. Aurangazeb has built a big mosque near the Panch Ganga
Ghat; five rivers are supposed to meet in this Ghat. It is compulsory to
take bath in the Assi Ghat, one of the first Ghats, and offer prayers
to the Lingam under the Peepal Tree. At the Dasawamedha Ghat, Lord
Brahma has sacrificed ten horses; and is an important spot. When you
take bath here, you get the benefits of doing Aswamedha Yagam. The
Chakra Thirth is actually a well; we poured one sombu
(about a litre) of water drawn from the well constituting Chakra
Thirtha. We bought some lamps from the vendors and floated them on the
Ganges.
Cremation Ghats
At
Manikarnika Ghat, you can see several dead bodies burning at once at
several heights. The ashes will be dumped in the Ganges. The souls will
be liberated. For several minutes, I was watching the dead bodies
burning constantly. It becomes very clear to one and all that no one is
going to live permanently on Earth; death is assured for all. None can
take even one Rupee when he dies; indicating the futility of
materialistic objects. Such thoughts make one calm and quiet. Some
equanimity is transmitted to your person instantly as you watch the
cremation of innumerable bodies. Several bodies are placed in the Que
awaiting cremation. Anyone who visits Benaras must witness such
cremation in these Ghats. According to the legend, Vishnu dug a pit with
his chakra, and the sweat created during his meditation filled the pit.
Shiva shook his head and his jeweled earring fell into the pit, hence
the name Manikarnika. Tradition has it that those who die at Benaras and
get cremated at the Manikarnika Ghat, get liberated from the cycle of
life and death.
When
I saw cremation in the Harishchandra Ghats, my mind naturally
recollected the story of this ancient King who followed the path of
truth; I recalled the way his wife Chandramati had undergone suffering
as a sequel to this. A bath in these Ghats will ensure that your sins
are dissolved and you attain Moksha after your death. This is the main
reason why the Hindus want to have a bath in the Ganges; esp., in these
Ghats. I am told that the Manikarnika Ghat is THE most important one for
cremation; and hence for doing Shrardham.
We offered pindams to the ancestors here. Nowhere in India, you will
see cremation right at the center of the city; except Varanasi, which is
considered as Mahashmashan; the Great Cremation Ground. In the olden
days, thousands of Hindus used to do Kasi Yatra just to die at Kasi and
attain Moksha. So, Kasi became
the Great Cremation Ground for the whole of Hindustan. The Cremation
Ghats convey a clear message to all: Nothing is permanent. Death is
certain. Death is assured for all those who are born. It is only a
matter of time. Kasi Yatra and a trip to Gaya signify these facts. So,
one has to behave himself while alive. This is the message of the
cremation Ghats during Kasi Yatra. So, when you embark on Kasi Yatra,
make it a point to get close to the Cremation Ghats. Please don’t avoid
them.
Ganga Aarti
All
the pilgrims visiting Kasi should not fail to participate in the Ganga
Aarti event. It is simply spectacular. Ganga Aarti is held in a few
places along the Ghats; but the one at Dasaawameth Ghat is the most
scintillating show. There are a number of priests clad in identical
saffron uniform, performing a series of Poojas: say, 16 types: like
doopam, deepams, karpooraadanai, etc., constituting the Shodasobachara
Pooja. Before starting the Aarti, some experts give discourses on some
Vedic topics. The deepaaradanai done by nearly ten priests, each holding
a tall lamp with several steps of lighted lamps at
different levels constitutes a magnificent sight. You may see a good
portrayal of the Ganga Aarti at Youtube. Several high quality photos are
also displayed in the Wikipaedia. The Ganga Aarti is held each day at 5
PM, and takes nearly an hour. Hundreds of people witness the same from
innumerable boats in the nearby Ghats. One problem is Ganga Aarti is
held simultaneously from two nearby areas and the loud-speakers from
both create disturbing conditions creating interference on both. I
think, there is no need of loud speakers in the first place. Besides,
one does not need two Ganga Aartis at such close locations. However,
despite these aberrations, it is a marvelous spectacle to watch.
Pic.: Ganga Aarti: (Thanks: Wikipaedia)
Pic.: Ganga Aarti (Thanks: Fiveprime.org)
Shrardham
There
are two types of Shrardhams: Anna Shrardham and Hiranya Shrardham. In
Anna Shrardham, a few Brahmins: 3 to 4: are fed after the ceremonies.
These Brahmins represent our ancestors. In Hiranya Shrardham, no such
elaborate feeding takes place: instead, plantains and rice are offered;
however, certain rituals are still carried out. Anna Shrardham is more
involved and expensive in relation to the latter. It also takes more
time. While regular, full-fledged Anna Shrardham is mandatory at Gaya,
you may opt for Hiranya Shrardham at Kasi, which is repeatedly done five
times in the various Ghats of Kasi. The most important Shrardhams at Kasi are the ones performed at Manikarnika and Pancha Thirtha. Nandi is meant for the appeasement of the ancestors; while Vaishnava Shrardham is for pleasing or satisfying the Gods. Pinda
Pradaanam is the ritual of offering food to three or more generations
of our ancestors. Balls of cooked rice to which a small quantity of ellu
(sesame seeds) is added constitute Pindams. The offering of the same is
Pinda Pradaanam.
Dhaanam: (or Daan)
You
should also do an important thing during Kasi Yatra, particularly at
Kasi: “dhaanam” (or daan) or charity. You may do this to anyone;
Brahmins in particular. Anything
can be given as daanam: vessels, money, clothes, mats, cow (go-daan),
gold, etc., depending on your capacity and generosity. The Poorvanga
Daan refers to the one at the beginning of the rituals; while the
Uttaranga Daan refers to the one at the end of the rituals. The Dasa
Daan refers to the ten traditional daans recommended in the Scriptures.
Nowadays, the daans are given based on one’s generosity and economic
conditions; no prescribed rules are followed. The daans are mainly for
the Brahmins who conduct the rituals; but you can give daan to anyone
and everyone; the poor and needy; irrespective of the caste. Anna Daan
is the most important daan. I may mention that after completing the Kasi
Yatra, we are expected to feed 10 couples and offer daans.
If you do dhaanam properly, the Brahmins will say: tripti. But, it is difficult to get a “tripti” from the Brahmins at
Gaya. You really have to be a bit liberal; and also kind. The readers
should not imagine that it will cost them the Earth to get “tripti”
from the Brahmins. Liberal charity with love and affection would do.
Dhaanam or charity or donation constitutes one of the most important
aspects of Kasi Yatra. We are aware that several people have offered
dhaanam of cow (go-dhaanam) or even gold from time to time. If we can’t
do that, the least we can do is to give liberal amount of money to the
poor and needy; Brahmins in particular. Why Brahmins? Because, they are
the ones who perform the rituals. They have no other income. During our
Kasai Yatra, my wife and self could manage to get tripti
from the Pundits and Priests in most of the places; and the expenses
were still manageable. Sometimes, I have noted that even some well to do
people offer meager amounts. This is improper in these days of
inflation. Please note that the Brahmins doing religious service are not
beggars; they are learned people; well-versed in Vedic rites; and also
do enormous work during the rituals; and deserve a better deal. Besides,
they too have children studying in colleges. There are innumerable poor
people and even beggars who will seek charity from you. It will be
impossible to please or satisfy all these. They also prove to be a big
nuisance; since they won’t let you do your ceremonies peacefully. In
Kasi, I noticed that one beggar lady was trying to get daan from us
repeatedly, even after receiving liberal amount from us. Needless to
say, one would get disgusted with such cheats. Notwithstanding these, we
have tried to give some money to the poor wherever possible. The Pandas
in temples, Ghats, etc. will try to exploit you. So, avoid them to the
extent possible. Like I have said before, it is better to go through a
Service Provider or Coordinator, who will generally take care of such
matters; so that you won’t be harassed by the unwanted elements.
Gaya Shrarddha
The
most important ritual to be performed at Gaya is Shraddha: that too at
the bank of the Phalguni River. The Phalgu River is dry most of the
time; so a bath here is out of question. We were astonished by the
length and breadth of the river; yet, devoid of water: it is all sand
everywhere along the river. The Priest narrated the legend about
Phalguni River. Rama and Sita, came to Gaya to perform the sacred rites
for Rama’s father, Dasaratha. Sita was playing on the sand when Rama
went for bathing. At that time, Dasaratha suddenly appeared in front of
Sita and asked for pindam (food), which Sita offered after converting
sand to pindams. When Rama came after a bath, he could not believe this.
Sita said, she has five witnesses: the Akshaya Vatam (banyan tree), the
Falguni River, a Cow, a Tulsi Plant and a Brahmin. Of these, only the
Akshaya Vatam supported her stand; all the others kept quiet. Sita
became very angry and cursed the four as follows: there would be no
water in Phalguni most of the times; the Cow would always be worshipped
from the back side (never from the front side, as is the normal
practice); there would be no Tulsi Plant at Gaya; the Brahmins would
never be satisfied at Gaya (that is why, they rarely say “tripti” at
Gaya). On the contrary, Sita blessed that the Banyan Tree would remain
immortal. That is why this tree is known as Akshaya Vat: Aakshaya means
one that never decays; Vat means a banyan tree). We are also told that
while all the banyan trees generally shed their leaves sometime during a
year, the Akshayavat remains ever green: even in draught. The readers
may note that even though, the Phalguni River is bone-dry, we would see
water even if we dig the sand by one foot. There is sub-soil water
everywhere along the river. Other important temples in the vicinity are
the Sakshi Gopal temple and the Mangala Gauri Temple (this is a part of
the Shakti Peetam).
Gaya
is significant to all the Hindus from the point of view of salvation of
the souls of their ancestors. People perform Gaya Shraddha; esp. a
ritual called pinda daan. These pindas would constitute food for the
hungry ancestors, who have been keenly awaiting our presence at Gaya to
offer the pindas after proper Shraddha. The satisfied ancestors will
bless us offering us anything and everything that we need for ourselves
as well as our entire family. If all the members of a big family can’t
perform Gaya Shraddha due to some inconvenience, it would not matter.
Even if one member performs the same accompanied by his wife, the
ancestors will be pleased and bless all. This is the advantage. I am
happy that I could perform Gaya Shraddha along with my wife for the
benefit of the entire family; the other members of my family have not
had a chance to perform the same. I am happy that I could fill the void.
The Vedic Rites are performed not just for three generations; but for
all the ancestors connected with the families of bot the husband and
wife participating in the Gaya Shraddha. The “Bhumihar Brahmins” have
been the traditional priests at Vishnupad Mandir. We were told by the
Pandas that the present day temple was rebuilt by Devi Ahilya Bai
Holkar, the Maharani of Indore in the 18th century.
I
will now narrate the way the Gaya Shraddha is performed. This is very
important for the readers. We should note that, when Gayasur died he had
requested Vishnu one boon: that people should be perform the Shraddha
and the sacred rites including Pinda Pradaanam: not only for their
ancestors, but for anyone and everyone: ancestors of the immediate
family, distant relatives, friends and foes, non-Hindus, pets, unclaimed
bodies, etc: in short, for any person or animal that has died naturally
or through some mishap. This is an exceptional act of kindness on the
part of Gayasur as well as Maha Vishnu who granted the boon. The pindams
are offered even for the realatives who were not well-disposed to our
family. Because, even those realtives, who had been generally adverse to
our interests, have done some good things some time in their life: say,
by attending or gracing our functions. The pindams are also offered to
people who have died during accidents, natural disasters, mishaps, etc.
as well as people who have committed suicide. Similarly, pindams are
offered for friends, birds, animals, etc; indeed, anything and
everything associated with our life directly or indirectly. We chant
mantras and offer pindams sequentially one by one to all ancestors,
friends, enemies, animals and birds. This
is the beauty of Gaya Sraddha. Gaya is the only place where Pinda
Pradaanam is carried out in this manner for anyone and everyone. The
Akshaya Vata and the Vishnu Pada are the only two places where one can
perform the Vedic rites not only for our forefathers, but for anyone:
family, friends, acquaintances, people of whatever caste or religion,
animals, pets, abandoned bodies, etc.
In a conventional Shrardham
performed at home, 3 pindams are made: for three generations. In a
Tirtha Shrardham, a la at Kasi, Prayaag, Rameswaram, etc., 16 pindams
are offered for all ancestors of father as well as mother. In the Gaya
Sraddham, as many as 32 to 64 pindams are offered. If 64 pindas
are offered, 32 are for the mother alone; 16 for the ancestors; and 16
for all the others. If 32 pindas are offered, 16 are for the mother; and
the other 16 are for the ancestors and others. At Gaya, we offered only
32 pindas. At Kasi, we offered a total of 16 pindas at each of the five
Ghats. The rituals for
the mother are the most important and very touching too. Generally, 16
pindams are offered as we tell the mantras one by one in some sequence,
meaning: (I have given only those that I remember. As I chanted the
mantras and offered the pindams, I nearly got choked due to emotions; my
eyes got moist; the priest also noted this):
· Mother, you have carried me for 10 months continuously; for that, I offer a pindam.
· Mother,
I have kicked you several times while in your uterus; you have
tolerated that with a smile; for that, I offer you a pindam.
· Mother,
you have taken pains to perform various ceremonies and rituals for my
general welfare and health; for that I offer you a pindam.
· Mother, when I was young, you did not consider it dirty or nasty to wash me and clean me, whenever I urinated or defecated; for that, I offer you a pindam.
· Mother,
you did not sleep for several days whenever I was sick to make sure
that I have a good sleep and recover soon; for that I offer you a
pindam.
· Mother, you have denied yourself all the privileges, so that I have good education and life; for that I offer you a pindam.
Sita
has blessed the Akshaya Vata saying that all who came to Gaya would
perform the Pinda Pradaanam at the Akshaya Vatam too. That is why, we
placed the Pinda Pradaanam at the base of the Akshaya Vata (banyan tree)
too. So, when you perform Shrarddha at Gaya, after the ceremonies, you
should place the pinda pradaanams at the Vishnu Paada as well as Akshaya
Vata. Also, a round rice ball, along with some ghee poured over that,
has to be offered to the crows inside the temple so that the hungry
ancestors, who would arrive in the form of crows, can take their food. I
am told that for a fee of Rs.100/- an imprint of the Padam is taken on a
muslin cloth and given to the devotee. You may keep it in the Pooja
room; it is considered very auspicious.
Photo: Vishnu Padam
Bodh Gaya
When
we were returning from Gaya, we stopped at Bodh Gaya, about 25 Km from
Gaya. This is the place where Lord Budha got enlightened under Bodh
Tree. It was very hot; some 45 deg C. To get to the Budha Statue, one
has to climb a large number of steps. The steps were very hot; so people
were running up and down to beat the heat. A saving grace was that
there was a simple carpet along the steps; yet it was pretty hot. Since
you have to remove your chapels if you want to get to the Bodh Tree, we
were content to have a close look at it from a distance; rather than
getting the feet burnt.
Budha
attained enlightenment at Bodh Gaya. A lot of Budhists as well as
Hindus visit this place. I have seen several Budhist Monasteries
operated by foreign agencies; for instance, the Thai Government. Indeed,
many foreign governments (Burma, Japan, Thailand, Sri Lanka, etc.) have
contributed liberally for the construction and infrastructure
development at Bodh Gaya. The Thai Monastery, which I could see from the
road as we drove, is very impressive. To me, it looked as though the
various Budhist governments maintain their religious embassies here.
Allahabad-Benaras-Gaya Highway
The
Highway to Benaras from Gaya is actually the Delhi-Calcutta Highway;
part of the Super Highways Program of Vajpayee: perhaps, a part of the
Golden Quadrilateral. It is not as crowded as the Southern Highways;
perhaps due to the absence of industrialization a la South; clearly the
entire UP-Bihar belt is relatively very poor. So, the cars move fast;
this is a saving grace given the hot temperature (around 45 deg. C). The
Sun was beating down heavily on us. The air-conditioned car gave some
relief. Otherwise, heat stroke is a possibility. The local people use
clothes to cover their heads and bodies to beat the heat. I saw one lady
pouring water from a bottle all over her body before boarding her car.
This is one way of beating the heat, I guess. If you travel in summer,
make sure that you drink plenty of water, lassi, cool drinks, etc.,
which are available on the way. This will give you protection from
dehydration.
Important Temples During Kasi Yatra
- Viswanath Temple (Kasi)
This is the most important Temple at Kasi and is dedicated to Lord Visweswara. It is one of the twelve Jyothir Lingas
of Lord Shiva. It is believed to be the holiest place for the Hindus,
due to the permanent presence of Lord Shiva, as Kasi Viswanath. So, one
would feel the waves of Lord Shiva impinging on him at all time. The
Viswanath Temple was destroyed several times by the rulers like Mohammed
Ghori, Aurangzeb, and Warren Hastngs and was rebuilt successively. The
temple in the present form was built by Rani Ahillyabai Dikar in 1776
A.D. I was told that after destroying the Temple, Aurangzeb built a
mosque over that. Maharaja Ranjit Singh constructed the golden cover on
the Temple Towers. As I was looking at the Temple Towers, I was
wondering, how a Sikh King had been so generous to donate to a Hindu
Temple. The lakhs of people visiting the Temple means that, whereas
people can destroy buildings, no one can destroy the faith of the
masses. Because, such a faith is a sequel to the Sanadhana Dharma of the
Hindus practiced and followed over a period of thousands of years. The
readers would note that the Shiv Linga at this Temple is very small.
Like they say in Tamil, “Moorthy siruthaalum kirthy sirukkaadhu”: meaning, even if the idol is small, reputation is big.
Pic: Kasi Vishwanath (Thanks: Uma; www.shaktipeethas.org)
- Vishalakshi Temple (Kasi)
This
is one of the most important Temples to be visited in Kasi. Hindus
regard Kasi as one of the Shakti Peethas. Vishalakshi Temple stands on
the spot where Goddess Sati’s earrings
fell. Hindus of the Shakti Sect (Shaktaism) make an exclusive
pilgrimage to the city because they regard river Ganga itself as Goddess
Shakti. Also, Vishalakshi and Annaoorna Temples constitute Shakti
Temples.
- Bindu Madhav Temple (Kasi)
After taking
bath in the Pancha Ganga Ghat, we visited the Bindu Madhav Temple and
prayed there. Mr. Satyamurthy has given some details about this temple
in his blog (www.shaktipeethas) as follows:
Lord
Indra killed a Brahmin named Vritrasura. Because of killing the
Brahmin, Indra aquired Brahma Hatya Dosham that will impact very
seriously on him. To overcome this, he constructed five temples for Lord
Vishnu at different places as follows:
1.Bindu Madhav: Kasi
2.Veni Madhav: Prayaag (Allahabad)
3.Kunthi Madhav: Pithapuram
4.Setu Madhav: Rameswaram
5.Sundara Madhav: Anantha Padmanabham(Trivandrum)
1.Bindu Madhav: Kasi
2.Veni Madhav: Prayaag (Allahabad)
3.Kunthi Madhav: Pithapuram
4.Setu Madhav: Rameswaram
5.Sundara Madhav: Anantha Padmanabham(Trivandrum)
These
Temples constitute Pancha Bindu Madhavs. The original Temple at Kasi
was destroyed by the Muslim invaders. The present one is the small
reconstructed version in a nearby spot.
- Kal Bhairav Temple (Kasi)
It is an ancient temple of Varanasi near the Head Post Office at VishesharGanj. We are told that Kal Bhairav is said to be the "Kotwal of Varanasi" , without his permission no one can stay in Kasi.
- Sankat Mochan Temple (Kasi)
This
Temple is situated near the Assi river stream, on the way to Banaras
Hindu University from the city. This is a Temple for Lord Hanuman, who
is also known as "Sankat Mochan": the
God who protects us from all anxieties, disturbances and tormentations.
This temple is founded by Goswami Tulsidas. This temple is also known
as "Monkey" temple, as lot of monkeys are there inside the premises. The
security restrictions are severe.
- Annapoorna Temple (Kasi)
Annapoorna
is an important Temple to visit in Kasi. A visit to this Temple is a
must. Because, food is one of the most important requirements for all
human beings as well as animals. Goddess Annapoorna will ensure that
there is never food shortage in your house, if you visit this Temple and
pray with dedication. Also, don’t forget to buy an image or representation
of Annapoorna and keep it in your Pooja Room at your residence. You
will have adequate food and prosperity throughout your life. According
to the legend, Lord Shiva asked Goddess Annapoorna to ensure that no one
goes hungry in Kasi when a person lives; while Shiva will ensure that
he will attain Moksha after his death. Annapoorna is Kasi’s Queen and is
also known as Bhavani. Annapoorna literally means, provider of Plenty
of Food. The idol of Annapoorna always has a small vessel
containing Annam (food) signifying that the worshipper is assured of
food throughout his life.
- New Vishwanath Temple : Birla Mandir: (Kasi)
We went to this Temple by an auto; quite convenient. This Temple is situated inside the Banaras
Hindu University. This is a modern place of worship planned by Pandit
Malviya and built by the Birlas on the pattern of Vishwanath Temple.
This Temple is open to all, irrespective of caste or creed. As we were
traveling inside the BHU Campus, we noted that the Campus is huge.
Almost every kind of Department is there at BHU. No wonder, it is
considered as the biggest University in India. When we saw a number of
houses for the BHU faculty, I was reminded of my sister and her husband
who worked at BHU about two decades back. Pointing to the houses, I told
my wife, my sister must have been residing in one of these. BHU is
somewhat far off from the city, and takes about 40 minutes to drive to
the Campus.
- Tulsi Manas Temple (Kasi)
This temple is
dedicated to Lord Rama. The temple is built in the place where Goswami
Tulsidas composed the epic 'Ramacharitramanas', the Ramyana of Tulsidas.
Tulsi Manas Temple was constructed by a philanthropist family in 1964.
- Durga Temple (Kasi)
This is also known as Monkey Temple, because of the presence of a large number of monkeys in the Temple. This
temple is one of the most important temples in Varanasi. This temple is
built in Nagara Style. The shikhara of the temple is formed by many
small spires which are built one on top of the other. According
to legend, the present statue of Goddess Durga was not made by man but
appeared on its own in the temple. Thousands of Hindu devotees visit
this temple during Navratri and other auspicious occasions. Non-Hindus
can enter the courtyard of the Durga temple but not the inner sanctum.
- Vishnupaad Temple: Gaya
This
is the most important Temple at Gaya. This is where we perform rituals
to ancestors after the initial ceremonies in a Mutt. This massive
temple, located in the old town, is built over the footprints of Lord
Vishnu. Inside the temple, the 40 cm long footprint of Vishnu is made of
solid rock and surrounded by a silver plated basin. This Shikhara style
temple was reconstructed during the 18th century AD by Queen
Ahilya Bai of Indore, on the banks of the river Falgu. The readers
would recall that Viswanath Temple at Kasi was also reconstructed by
Maharani Ahilya Bai. We are very surprised about this and appreciate the
generosity of this great queen as well as her service to Hinduism.
Non-Hindus are not allowed to enter the temple.
- Patalpuri Temple: Allahabad
The Patalpuri temple is located inside the Allahabad Fort. Within the Patalpuri temple, we have the Akshaya Vat - or the immortal banyan tree. It is believed that Lord Rama has visited the Patalpuri Temple. The famous Chinese traveler, Hiuen Tsang also visited this temple.
Akshaya Vata: Eternal Banyan Tree: Prayaag
The Akshaya Vata literally means immortal or eternal banyan tree. This tree is located within the Patalauri temple, on the bank of Yamuna, inside the Allahabad Fort. We are familiar with this tree because, we talk about it during the performance of the rituals for the ancestors: the Shraddhams or dhivasams. This holy tree is also documented at length in the Scriptures. During the cyclic of destruction, when the whole earth was enveloped by waters, Akshaya Vata remained alive and unaffected. It is on the leaves of this tree that Lord Krishna rested as a baby when land was no longer visible. And it is here that the immortal sage, Markandeya, had a vision of the Lord. Legend also has it that the Bodi tree at Gaya is a manifestation of this tree. There are hundreds of shrines near this holy tree. However, but for a few, most are inaccessible, because the Fort is a restricted military area. The Fort was closed to the public during British rule; and even now, we do not have access to this tree. We are told that during the Kumbha Mela, the government gives permission for pilgrims to pay their homage to the Akshaya Vata. However, people feel that the pilgrims never see the holy tree; instead, they are shown a branch of an ordinary banyan tree. We don’t know the truth. But, belief and faith matter more than the facts. The readers may note that the Akshaya Vata of interest during Kasi Yatra is the one at Gaya, not Allahabad.
Rituals at Triveni Sangam
An
important ritual during Kasi Yatra is a dip or bath at Triveni Sangam:
the junction of three rivers: Ganga, Yamuna and (mythological) Sarawati.
The river Saraswati is said to flow beneath the ground, and is not
visible. As we were going on the boat, the boatman showed that the brown
river on one side is the Ganges; and the blue river on the other side
is Yamuna. The third invisible river is beneath these two. The region
where these three rivers meet is the Sangam or Sangamam. This is the
holiest of all the Thirthas. Every Hindu should taske bath here to
attain salvation. The boatman stopped near a platform constructed for
anchoring the boats. All the people from various boats assemble here and
take bath. The husband and wife pairs take bath together. All the
people dip into the river at least nine times, chanting: Om
Namakshivaya. Sangam is around 7 km from the heart of Allahabad. From
our Mutt or residence, we drove to the river site. Each year, tens of
thousands of people take dip at Sangam during the Magha Mela. Besides, lakhs of people take bath at Sangam during Ardh Kumbh and Kumbh Mela. The Kumbh Mela is held once in twelve years. Two important rituals are to be performed at Sangam. The first one is Veni Daanam: the
husband should comb the hair of his wife; split it in three parts, and
knit and tie the hair together After that\, a small part of the hair at
the end is to be cut; and this is to be dipped into the Sangam. The
other ritual is, the sand that we brought from Rameshwaram (from Agni
Theertham or Sea) is to be dissolved at Sangam, after performing Pooja,
considering the sand as Shiv Linga. We have noted that, whereas hundreds
of people dump the hair at sangam, nowhere have we noticed hair
floating on the water; the entire hair gets immersed: it does not happen
in other waters: where the hair tends to float. We collected water in a
five-litre plastic can at Sangam. Later, this was poured in a dozen
brass containers of various sizes and volumes; and then sealed. There
are a number of shops at Allahabad, for just this purpose. Generally,
the shop-keepers who sell these containers don’t charge separately for
sealing them. The remaining water was brought in the same plastic
container to Chennai, for distribution to friends and relatives in small
containers purchased at Chennai.
Rameshwar Yatra
One
must perform Rameshwar Yatra before and after the Kasi Yatra. Then
only, the Kasi Yatra will stand completed as per traditional procedures.
For A south Indian, the procedure is as follows: First, go to
Rameshwaram. Take bath in the 18 Tirthas. Get soil from the Agni Thirtha
(the sand beneath the sea). The sea itself is known as Agni Thirtha.
This will be packed in a container or bag (plastic) and given to you
after Pooja. Visit Rameshwaram Temple. At Triveni, the Priest would do
Pooja for the Shiv Linga made from this sand and Archana and Aarti would
be performed. After that, this would be immersed in the Triveni at
Prayaag (Allahabad). We should again visit Rameshwar after completing
Kasi-Triveni-Gaya Yatra. The Ganga water taken from Kasi and/or Triveni
will be brought to Rameshwar for performing Abhishek on Rameshwar
Lingam. Then the Kasi Yatra would be complete after offering food and
daan to 10 dampatis or
couples. In Rameshwaram there are 51 Theerthas; inside the Rameshwar
Temple itself, there are 22 Theerthas; of which 18 are functional now.
You should take bath using the 18 Theerthas inside the Temple. The Agni
Theertha is the Sea water outside the Temple; where one must take bath
and bring the sand from beneath the Sea near the shore. The Rameshwar
Yatra itself is an involved one, having several sequences and
procedures. I don’t intend to write a detailed description of this for
want of time; I leave it to others.
Vedic Rituals During Kasi Yatra
The
Kanchi Mutt at Kasi has suggested a comprehensive list of rituals to be
performed during Kasi Yatra. I have reproduced them below:
I. At Prayaag (Allahabad): (Triveni Sangam)
- Anugnai (Sankalpam)
- Vighneshwara Puja (Prayers to Lord Ganesha)
- Prayschitta Sankalpam (atonement for sins committed, knowingly or unknowingly)
- Veni Daanam (Women offer a part of their hair to the river praying for the long life of their husbands. The husband combs and plaits the wife’s hair, decorates it with flowers and cuts off the tip of the plait and offers it to the river. It is an interesting fact that while hair normally floats on water, at the Sangam; it immediately sinks to the river bed. Though almost all married women offer their hair here, there is not a single strand found floating on the river.)
- Triveni Sangam Snanam (husband and wife bathe together at the confluence of the 3 rivers, holding hands. One has to go to the confluence in a boat. A sort of platform has been erected at the point for the convenience of pilgrims)
- Hiranya Shrardham
- Pinda Pradaanam, Kshetra Pindam, Tarpanam
II. At Kasi (Varanasi)
I
have presented the Vedic Rites to be performed in three series as
follows. Each series can be performed during a day. However, we have
performed selected rituals from each series in a single day for want of
time.
I. Series
- Anugnai (Sankalpam)
- Vighneshwara Puja (Prayers to Lord Vigneshwara)
- Poorvanga Godaanam
- Poorvanga Dasa Daanam
- Naandhi Shrardham
- Vaishnava Shrardham
- Punyaa Vajanam (purification ritual)
- Maha Sankalpam
- Prayschitta Sankalpam: for atonement for sins committed, knowingly or unknowingly
- Pala Daanam
- Uttaranga Godaanam
- Manikarnika Teertha Shrardham (Anna roopam / Hiranya roopam)
II. Series
Pancha Teertha Yatra (One has to go in a boat to these 5 Ghats and perform the rituals):
i) Asi Ghat (Haridwar Teertham) – this is where the Asi river merges with the Ganga. Performing the rites here is believed to give one the fruits of performing the rites at Haridwar.
ii) Dashashwamedha Ghat (Rudra Sarovara Teertham) – this is the place where Brahma performed 10 Ashwamedha Yagnas, and hence it is considered sacred to perform the rites.
iii) Trilochana Ghat ( Vishnu Paada Udaka Teertham)
iv) Pancha Ganga Ghat ( Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswati, Kirana, Doodhapappa- Sangam); Bindu Madhava Temple
v) Manikarnika Ghat (Manikarnika Teertham, Chakra Pushkarni Teertham)
i) Asi Ghat (Haridwar Teertham) – this is where the Asi river merges with the Ganga. Performing the rites here is believed to give one the fruits of performing the rites at Haridwar.
ii) Dashashwamedha Ghat (Rudra Sarovara Teertham) – this is the place where Brahma performed 10 Ashwamedha Yagnas, and hence it is considered sacred to perform the rites.
iii) Trilochana Ghat ( Vishnu Paada Udaka Teertham)
iv) Pancha Ganga Ghat ( Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswati, Kirana, Doodhapappa- Sangam); Bindu Madhava Temple
v) Manikarnika Ghat (Manikarnika Teertham, Chakra Pushkarni Teertham)
III. Series
- Ganga Puja (it is a tradition to bring back small sealed containers of water from the Ganges and distribute it among our near and dear ones. One container is kept at home as it is considered sacred and one is taken to Rameswaram where it is used to perform Abhishekam to the lingam. All these containers are kept and prayed to before they are distributed.)
- Dampati Puja: Prayers offered to an elderly married couple, invoking them as Vishwanath and Annapoorna (We did Namashkar to the Ganapaadigal and his wife; offered a saree and dhoti to them).
- Uttaranga Dasa Daanam
- Kala Bhairava Samaradhana (invocation and prayers to Kala Bhairav)
III. At Gaya: Gaya Shrardham
- Anna Shrardham and Preliminary Rituals: These were performed at the residence of the Priest
- Palguni (Falguni) Teertha Hiranya Shrardham: this is the traditional Shrardham performed on the banks of any sacred river; in this case, River Falguni.
- Vishnu Paada Hiranya Shrardham: We go to the Vishnu Paada Temple: the pindams are offered at the Holy Foot of Vishnu and we place our head on the Foot and do Namashkar.
- Akshaya Vata Anna/Hiranya Shrardham
- Akshaya Vata Pinda Pradaanam: The pindams are placed at the base of the banyan tree, Akshaya Vata.
- Tharpanam to the ancestors
- Offering food to the Gaya Brahmins
- To enquire Gaya Brahmans if they are satisfied (according to legend, the Brahmins at Gaya are not easily satisfied and it is a tradition to ask them anyway in an attempt to satisfy them)
- Acharya Sambhavana: payment of the dhakshina or fees to the Chief Priest or Pundit
Note: While
the three Series at Kasi constitute a comprehensive procedure, we have
carried out the following rituals at Kasi to conserve time: Sankalpam,
Vigneshwar Pooja, Maha Sankalpam, Praychitra Sankalpam, Pala Daanam,
Pancha Theertha Yatra and the five Shrardhams at the Ghats, Ganga
Pooja, Dampati Pooja, Dasa Daanam, offering food to Brahmins, etc. We
have however, performed most of the rituals recommended by the Kanchi
Mutt and identified above, at Gaya and Prayaag.
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